Think of the painter Magritte. In his works, people are representational and fruit is dead on. It’s the juxtaposition of an apple for a face that makes the works surreal–the substitution of something that should not be there for something that is expected. This is Australia as viewed by my American eye. From a distance, the gorgeous landscapes are similar to Maine, the California coast, and many of our national parks. But when you get up close, the expected is replaced by the unusual. 

You see an awfully large rabbit, blink, and now it’s a wallaby. You hear a bird whistle and see a grey and lavender parrot. The magpies have gurnsey feathering. A weeping willow turns out to be kind of pine tree. There are forests of eucalypts with a different version for each of the ecological niches. A black “garter snake” slithers by and you discover that it’s poisonous–but no worries, mate, it’s only the third deadliest in Australia, and one antivenin cures all (if administered in time). Aussies drive on the left. Cyclones rotate counterclockwise (but most drain water in sinks and toilets rotates clockwise–plumbing conventions are far stronger than the Coreolis Effect). The North Star isn’t visible and  the Southern Cross doesn’t always point South. And in Australia America’s today is an Aussie’s tomorrow. 

It’s high season and there are two cars on the road.

We visit wineries and we often are the only guests. Our hosts pour, four, five, six, samples and happily chat with us about the wine and life in general. Time per winery: 45 minutes to an hour. Cost: nothing. You meet an Aussie on a hiking trail and he’s your friend for life. They are a very open and friendly people. Ask a bloke for directions to a gas station and he’ll offer give you a liter or two if you’re running too low. If this is surreal, give me more of it. All one really needs to do is change one’s expectations and then surreal becomes normal. I’m working on that.

Come to think of it, maybe it’s the USA that is surreal in the sense that our expectations are out of line when it comes to living life as a human being instead of a consumer.

Barossa cuisine was something of a disappointment–more for show than for taste. The best eating we’ve had on the trip was in Iceland and Tasmania. The Barossa wines, however, were a real highlight of the trip. Unfortunately, they keep many of the best for themselves. Partly this is due to the limited quantities produced. Partly, many wineries are family run affairs making a reasonable profit selling to Aussies. They have no desire for the hassles involved in exporting.

In the Barossa region, the cooler Eden Valley is “high” (1500 feet), and the warmer Barossa Valley is low (200 feet) with very red, iron-rich soil. A couple of tastings poured Shiraz from both areas side by side to compare. Most of the Aussie Shiraz in the US is Barossa–the more robust and fruity of the two. The Eden wines are more delicate and layered. Both are delicious, and which one you pick depends on your mood and food.

Rieslings are big. I did not find most of them as appealing as say the Eroica from Chateau St. Michelle in Washington, but all were interesting.

Some exceptional wines, but not available in the US, alas:

Rockford 2005 Shiraz VP: these guys figured out how to make a port wine from Shiraz. It is amazing but short-lived. Once open, the wine loses its flavor and depth in as little as three days. The winemaker said “Invite your good friends and drink it up in a night.”

Rockford Hand Picked Riesling: they went for crisp and sweet. Really great as an aperitif or dessert wine.

St. Hallet The Black NV: this is a sparkling Shiraz made the French Champanoise way. It is relatively sweet, compared to champagne, but the incredible flavor and depth is unique. Goes great with bacon and eggs or Christmas dinner.

St. Hallet Old Block Shiraz 2010: made from 100-year-old vines, this was the best Shiraz I’ve ever had. The depth and complexity rivals the best French Bordeaux and we had it young. The cellar person said that if you age it for 15 years it even gets better. Hard to believe. FYI, it is a combination of vintages from this grape that makes the NV sparking wine above.

Bethany Eden Valley Riesling 2010: Better than the Eroica, great with fish or Asian cuisine. Has a real snap with an almost apple crispness on the tongue.

Henschke Noble Rot Semillion: fantastic dessert wine. Sweet with a kind of zing. Goes great with cheese or fruit, but almost is best savored alone.

Haggies Chardonnay 2013: could have fooled me into thinking it was a Sauvignon Blanc. Not oakey or heavy, but light and delicately fruity. 

Bethany old Valley Barossa Fronti White Port: we brought a bottle of this stuff home with us. Be nice, and we might share it. It’s not actually clear, but more honey colored. Sweet, but feather-light on your palate. Hmm, maybe we won’t share.